Roots on Vandaceous plants

Every time about this time of the year, I have friends bring me their dying vandas and I try to revive them. Usually what happens, like in this instance, the plant got too cold and began losing its leaves and the roots die back to the stem of the plant. As you can see from the 1st pic, the roots have died and the leaves have dropped off. Now what I do, which was taught to me from an old orchid grower, is make a paste to smear on the stem. I use unscented talcum powder and add some KLN or Superthrive to make this paste. You won't need alot but it must be sticky. You smear it on the stem and then spritz the area with water and KLN for the next few days and you will notice that where a leaf was, there will be a node that either bloomed or will make a root. Now if there was a bloom there, it will not make a root. It uses the same node to root or bloom. In about 2 weeks, you will see something like pic#2 with a root starting.

I rather use KLN but I have done it with Superthrive also. In the past, I heard that prolonged use of Superthrive will distort the bloom but personally I have never see that. Superthrive, at least here in Central Florida, can be picked up at WalMart and KLN can be brought from your local supply house. In pic #3, I bought this plant this year at the Trustee show in Orlando in April and now using KLN, you can see the different size of the roots. I use this 1 oz/gal once a month on healthy plants and you can see what happens.

http://www.orchidboard.com/community/vanda-alliance-others/966-roots-vandaceous-plants.html

How to Trigger Reblooming of Your Phalaenopsis Orchid

http://www.justaddiceorchids.com/Just-Add-Ice-Orchid-Blog/bid/81436/How-to-Trigger-Reblooming-of-Your-Phalaenopsis-Orchid


When your Just Add Ice Orchid stops blooming and enters dormancy, it is not dead. You can encourage your orchid to bloom again with just a little TLC. Phalaenopsis orchids rebloom on old spikes with a new stalk emerging from a triangular node along the stalk. To trigger the growth of a new stalk and reblooming, your Just Add Ice Orchid will need a little more attention than these easy-care orchids usually require. The thrill when your Just Add Ice Orchid blooms for a second time, however, makes the small investment in time and effort required to trigger orchid reblooming well worth the effort.
Phalaenopsis orchids expend a lot of energy to create the large, beautiful flowers for which they are prized. Under normal circumstances, your Just Add Ice Orchid will enter a resting period called dormancy once it has finished blooming. Dormancy allows the plant time to rest and replace the nutrients expended during blooming. Nutrients and water are stored in the plant’s leaves until they are needed for growth and blooming. Dormancy typically lasts from 6 to 9 months and your orchid may rebloom on its own as orchids do in nature. However, most display orchids need a little help activating the natural rhythm that leads to blooming.

To trigger orchid reblooming, follow these steps:

1. When your orchid stops blooming, begin fertilizing it every other week with a balanced houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20) mixed at half strength. Do not water your Just Add Ice Orchid with 3 ice cubes on the weeks you fertilize your plant.
2. Move your orchid to a cooler environment where nighttime temperatures are between 55 and 65 degree F. until a new flower spike emerges.
3. Return your plant to its usual location and continue watering with 3 ice cubes once a week.

Check our website and orchid care videos for more detailed instructions on orchid reblooming.

How We Grow Cattleyas

How We Grow Cattleyas

http://rforchids.com/how-we-grow-cattleyas/

Pot. Taichung Beauty ‘Chi Ming’ FCC/AOS

Most everyone is familiar with the voluptuous, fragrant “corsage” orchids commonly known as cattleyas. This common name encompasses a large number of closely-related ­orchid species in many genera (singular: genus) and their ­hybrids. They are native to the American tropics and subtropics, and are among the most recognizable orchid flowers anywhere in the world.
The species readily interbreed, and because it’s possible to make fertile hybrids between and among several genera we have an enormous number of complex intergeneric crosses as well. The orchid plants we call “cattleyas” may be species or hybrids within the genus Cattleya, or they may be close relatives (Laelia, Brassavola, Sophronitis, Epidendrum, ­Encyclia, Broughtonia), or hybrids among these genera. Although botanists have a fancy name for this group of ­orchids, they are also known as member of the “cattleya tribe”.

C. skinneri in the garden at R.F. Orchids

Fortunately most of the species and hybrids of the cattleya tribe are easy to grow, and some are highly recommended for beginners’ collections. Many of them adapt beautifully to our subtropical conditions, doing equally well in pots and other containers, or naturalized in our trees. Their extravagant, often highly fragrant flowers are popular with growers everywhere.
Cattleyas are sympodial orchids (unlike Vandas, which are monopodial). They have a thick horizontal stem (the rhizome). New growth sprouts from buds on the rhizome, and a healthy plant may grow from multiple points on the ­rhizome. Each new growth, or “lead”, begins with a bud near the base of the previous growth. Plants tend to grow horizontally rather than vertically and most cattleyas will grow out of their pots within a few years.

Brassavola nodosa in the garden at R.F. Orchids

In their native habitats, the cattleyas (and most of the closely related species) are epiphytes. They grow on the limbs and trunks of trees, but are not parasites. The roots of epiphytic plants (including orchids, as well as some bromeliads, ferns and aroids) are specially adapted for this environment. The plants take no nourishment from the tree itself; their roots absorb moisture and nutrients from the debris that ­collects around the roots. Cattleyas are also adapted to seasonal changes in rainfall amounts. The thickened stems, called pseudobulbs, store moisture for the plant to use during the dry season.

Cultural ­Requirements
Potting media –These orchids are highly adaptable and will grow well in pots, baskets or on mounts (cork bark, driftwood, tree fern). They are not generally fussy about the growing medium as long as it is very open, well-aerated and free-draining. ­Remember, they are adapted to growing in the trees, where they are subject to heavy rains alternating with breezy, dry conditions. The plants need good air circulation around the roots. This is perhaps the most critical element in caring for cattleyas, as the plants will not do well if their roots are smothered with soggy or poorly-aerated potting material. Different potting materials have different characteristics, ­particularly with respect to moisture retention. No one material is better than another – each has its advantages and disadvantages. Choose a medium that will be appropriate for your conditions. If you water your plants frequently, use mounts or clay pots with an extremely free-draining medium such as Aliflor or Hydroton (expanded clay pellets) mixed with a little chopped tree fern and redwood chips. If you water infrequently, choose materials that will hold ­moisture somewhat longer: plastic pots, or a mix that ­includes perlite.

Cattleya mounted on driftwood

Here at R.F. Orchids, we grow cattleyas in pots, in ­baskets, and mounted. Our preferred potting mix is Aliflor or Hydroton with treefern and redwood, in clay pots; this works well for us under our greenhouse conditions. If you’re using a different mix and your plants are doing well, stick with your regimen. Remember, the plants are adaptable; there is no single “best” potting medium. Many cattleya orchids grow well in slat baskets or mounted. This assures good air circulation at the roots – as long as the basket or mount isn’t rotten! – and is the closest thing to their natural habitats. You can add some coarse expanded clay pellets or hardwood charcoal to the basket. Once established, mounted cattleyas can remain undisturbed for many years. Potted cattleyas may require repotting every 2-3 years, depending on their growth rate.
Water – Watering cattleyas is dependent on several ­factors. The potting medium should be allowed to dry somewhat ­between waterings. If your plants are potted in a moisture-­retaining mix, this may mean watering twice a week. For a more open, porous mix, you may need to water every two or three days. Cattleyas mounted on cork or driftwood can be watered every day while they’re growing, if the air circulation is good and the mount dries during the day. Always water early in the morning if you can. During the cooler, shorter days of winter, water less often, particularly if plants are not actively growing.

C. amethystoglossa ‘Crownfox’ AM/AOS

Light – Like most flowering plants, cattleyas want bright light in order to grow and flower well. They will take fairly high light levels early and late in the day, but should be  protected from ­direct midday sunlight. You can easily tell if a ­cattleya is ­getting the right amount of light by looking at the foliage. If the plant’s leaves are rich, dark green, it isn’t getting enough light; if the plant is light yellow-green, it’s getting too much light. The correct light levels produce foliage with an attractive medium green color. If your cattleyas don’t flower, lack of light may be the culprit, but don’t move plants abruptly from too-shady to very bright conditions. Move the plant gradually to brighter conditions or you may scorch the foliage. Some species in the cattleya alliance grow in nearly full sun in their native habitats, although most of the commonly cultivated species and hybrids prefer just slightly shadier conditions than this. Let the foliage color be your guide to the amount of light necessary for good growth and flowering. As a general guide, cattleyas want very bright shade, with some sunlight early or late in the day.
Fertilizing – In “captivity”, cattleyas do best with supplemental fertilizing. The best fertilizer depends on the potting medium you use. For mostly inert potting materials (expanded clay is completely inert, as are charcoal, lava rock, perlite and similar manufactured materials), we recommend a balanced fertilizer with ­micronutrients. Peter’s 20-20-20 is one option, and it’s the fertilizer we use. Jack’s Classic 20-20-20 is packaged for retail consumer use. For potting materials that are largely ­comprised of tree bark, a fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content may be appropriate; high-N formulas have a higher first number, such as 30-10-10. The normal decay process of bark uses nitrogen, so you may have to supplement it. If your plants are getting plenty of light but they’re still dark green and not flowering very well, the problem may be too much nitrogen.

New growth on a cattleya

Growth Cycles – Most species cattleyas (and their species relatives in other genera) have relatively distinct growing and resting phases during the annual cycle. While the plants are actively growing, they should be fed and watered regularly. We fertilize weekly during the growing season, and cut back on both ­fertilizer and water during the shorter, cooler days in winter. Hybrids in this group, however, may or may not show a distinct growing/resting pattern. Some do stop growing and rest in the winter, some do not. Learn to recognize the signs of growth and the signs of resting, and care for your plants according to their needs during these parts of the cycle. If they are actively growing (no matter what time of the year it is), make sure they get regular water and fertilizer. If they are not growing, cut back on both fertilizer and water until you see signs of growth again. The resting phase may last a few weeks or a few months.

Yam. Redland Sunset ‘Crownfox Ruby’ HCC/AOS

Temperature – Most cattleyas are native to mountainous areas of tropical America, and they prefer intermediate temperatures. A few come from warmer or cooler regions, but in ­general cattleyas do best with daytime highs in the 80s, and cooler nights. In ­winter, they will withstand overnight lows in the 50-55F range easily, and with protection from the wind a brief drop into the mid-40s is generally not a problem. During cool periods, keep the plants somewhat drier than normal. (Note: Cattleya violacea from Brazil is very cold-sensitive, and some of the species in related genera are also warm-growing. If in doubt, protect the plants from temperatures below 50F.)
© 2012 R.F. Orchids, Inc. All rights reserved.

Orchid Laelia Purpurata Care

http://chadwickorchids.com/laelia_purpurata

A Cattleya by Any Other Name

The large-flowered Cattleya species have suffered from a bad case of botanical heartburn for more than 150 years — and some of the mistakes of the past never seem to be corrected. For Laelia purpurata, which is really a Cattleya, things even seem to be going from bad to worse, as I see recent efforts to reclassify this wonderful large and showy species as a member of the genus Sophronitis, which is composed of miniatures (Lindleyana, 15[2]:118).
The problems of L. purpurata began in 1831 when John Lindley established the genus Laelia. In 1831, Lindley described a Mexican orchid he called Laelia grandiflora (L. speciosa today) in his book Genera and Species of Orchidaceous Plants. The plant had relatively short, oval-shaped pseudobulbs that were different from the tall club-shaped or spindle-shaped pseudobulbs of a typical large-flowered Cattleya. The flowers were smaller, had a cut lip and eight pollen sacs (pollinia) instead of the usual four in Cattleya species. At the time, the new genus, Laelia, seemed to make sense. The plants were just different enough to appear botanically distinct. Then, in 1852, Lindley described another new orchid he called Laelia purpurata. This orchid, however, came from Brazil, not Mexico, and it had tall pseudobulbs that were similar to the pseudobulbs of a large-flowered Cattleya species. It also had flowers that looked just like a large-flowered Cattleya. In fact, the only thing that made it different from a Cattleya was that its flowers had eight pollinia instead of four. Despite the plant’s being a Cattleya in virtually all vegetative and floral characteristics, Lindley pushed it into the genus Laelia because it had eight pollinia, and it has been there ever since. Not everyone agreed with John Lindley’s decision to place L. purpurata in the genus Laelia. In the same year Lindley described his L. purpurata, Lemaire described the same orchid as Cattleya brysiana (Jard. Fleur, p. 275–276) and two years later, in 1854, J.G. Beer described it as Cattleya purpurata (Prak. Stud. Fam. Orch., p. 213). Lindley himself had already classified two similar large-flowered Brazilian species as Cattleyas, describing Cattleya crispa in 1828 (Bot. Reg. 14 t 1172) and Cattleya lobata in 1848 (Gard. Chron., 1848, p. 403). He later changed these Brazilian orchids to Laelia crispa and Laelia lobata as he got himself increasingly locked into the concept that the difference between eight and four pollinia was significant enough to justify a new genus. The late 1800s were a turbulent time for the concept that a small difference in number of pollinia warranted establishment of a new genus. James Veitch pointedly expressed the frustration of the horticultural community in his excellent Manual of Orchidaceous Plants when he wrote in 1887 that “it is much to be regretted that the distinguished authors of the Genera Plantarum [the botanists Bentham and Hooker] should have thought fit to have still kept them [Laelia and Cat-tleya] distinct.” Veitch would have included all Laelias in the genus Cattleya, not just the large-flowered ones. The large-flowered Brazilian Laelias are a distinct group within the present genus Laelia. They occur only in Brazil. There are none in Mexico or anywhere else in the Americas. They include primarily Laelia purpurata, Laelia crispa, Laelia lobata, Laelia grandis and Laelia tenebrosa and are usually referred to as the “Cattleyode” or Cattleya-like Laelias. Recent DNA studies (Lindleyana, 15[2]:96–114) have confirmed what has been clear for more than 100 years, that these Cattleyode Laelias are quite different from the Mexican Laelias and they do not belong in the genus Laelia. It is now time to look at these large-flowered Brazilian Laelias for what they are — large-flowered Cattleya species. The only botanical change, of course, that is needed to accomplish this, is to define the Cattleya species as we have always done, but add that a Cattleya has from four to eight pollinia. One of the most compelling arguments for including the large-flowered Brazilian Laelias in the genus Cattleya is the ease with which they breed with the large-flowered Cattleya species,and the normal character of the flowers of the resulting hybrids. In this respect, these large-flowered Brazilian Laelias are more closely related to the large-flowered labiata-type Cattleyas than Cattleya labiata is to the bifoliate cut-lip Cattleya species, where lip and other flower distortions do occur in their hybrids. Flower distortions also occur when Sophronitis species are crossed with these Laelias. The Grand Monarch of these large-flowered Brazilian species, of course, is Laelia purpurata, which has been a parent at one time or another in more than 90 percent of all so-called Laeliocattleya hybrids.
Laelia purpurata is without doubt one of the finest of all cultivated orchids. In addition to its large showy flowers, it has one of the widest ranges of color forms. There are probably more named clones of L. purpurata than any other Laelia or Cattleya species. This says a lot when you realize that named clones of Cattleya mossiae and Cattleya trianaei number in the hundreds. Laelia purpurata has large flowers, 6 to 8 inches (15–20 cm) across, and there are usually four or five flowers on a spike. The lavender color in the lip can be a brilliant royal purple often mixed with tones of red. This color can even appear in the sepals and petals to produce a flame-colored flower in flammea types. Many lovely semialba forms exist that often have striking dark purple lips and present a gorgeous contrast in color. Semialba forms also include flowers with pink to reddish lips, and lips that are dark slate-blue. Although there are a number of pale lavender albescens forms, there are also a few true albas that are quite beautiful. Laelia purpurata does not have the wide petals of a C. trianaei, and tends to pass this characteristic on to its hybrids. It more than makes up for this, however, by imparting the brilliant, rich colors of its labellum to the lips of its hybrids, and it is the chief contributor to the richly colored lips of most of our purple Laeliacattleya hybrids. There are also good coerulea forms; some of the best coerulea Laeliocattleyas I have seen have L. purpurata as a parent. Because of its floriferousness and the beautiful coloring of its flowers, I feel no orchid collection should be without it.
Laelia purpurata is the parent of probably the most famous primary hybrid in orchid history, Laeliocattleya Canhamiana (L. purpurata × C. mossiae). This cross, which flowers in June in the United States, was the wedding orchid of the cut-flower days, and literally tens of thousands Lc. Canhamiana were grown during the 1940s at the peak of the cut-flower era. The semialba form was the wedding orchid itself, pictured in advertisements in magazines and newspapers, and even in full color on the cover of the American Orchid Society Bulletin for December 1946, followed by four full-color pages of Lc. Canhamiana in bridal bouquets, travel corsages, hair swirls and even on a graduation diploma. Laeliocattleya Canhamiana shows the dominance of L. purpurata’s magnificent lip color, which made the semialba form so appealing. There have been many named clones of Lc. Canhamiana over the years, but the best one I have seen is an old clone named ‘King George’, which has a particularly large and beautiful lip. Laelia purpurata is native to Santa Caterina in southern Brazil where it is so admired that it is the state flower of Santa Caterina. It is extremely popular with local Brazilian orchid growers and rare clones garner handsome prices — in the thousands of dollars. Whole orchid shows are dedicated to L. purpurata and, with its many color forms, it is a collector’s dream. Laelia purpurata is known in the orchid world today only as Laelia purpurata. It was pictured in the famous orchid books Lindenia and Reichen-bachia, under this name, and in modern works like L.C. Menezes’ splendid book entitled Laelia purpurata, which shows a marvelous sampling of the many color forms of the species. In addition, when used as a parent in hybrids, the name L. purpurata is used by the Royal Horticultural Society’s orchid registrar, and AOS awards granted to this species are recorded under this name, too. It is unfortunate that, as Veitch observed in 1887, Bentham and Hooker continued John Lindley’s separation of the genera, Laelia and Cattleya, but it is equally sad that Veitch did not correct the problem himself. Veitch’s Manual of Orchidaceous Plants was the most widely read authoritative work on orchids of its day, and had Veitch called the plant Cattleya purpurata instead of L. purpurata in his manual, we would not be faced with the nomenclature difficulties we have now with the large-flowered Brazilian Laelias. In 1887, most orchid growers still used the names Cattleya crispa and Cattleya lobata and totally ignored John Lindley’s attempt 30 years earlier to change these names to Laelia crispa and Laelia lobata. If Veitch had acted on his convictions instead of just wringing his hands and blaming Bentham and Hooker, there would be no problem with C. purpurata today. Should we change the name Laelia purpurata to Cattleya purpurata now? The genus Laelia was established based on a Mexican orchid, so the Mexican Laelias will always retain the botanical priority in the use of the name Laelia. Since it is now clear that the Brazilian large-flowered Laelias do not belong in the same genus as the Mexican Laelias, the Brazilian Laelias are in a botanical wilderness and they need some informed help to place them in a happy home. After growing these plants for 60 years, I have to agree with the horticulturists of the late 1800s who felt the Brazilian large-flowered Laelias were Cattleya species and should have always been classified that way. If we change the Brazilian large-flowered Laelias to Cattleyas, of course, we are still faced with the problem of who really described C. purpurata first. Both Lindley and Lemaire published their descriptions of this orchid in 1852. If Lindley failed to beat Lemaire to the pressroom, which is probable, we may really be talking about Cattleya brysiana, not C. purpurata as a name for this orchid. Whether we call it Cattleya purpurata or Cattleya brysiana, however, is not too important. What is important is that we finally call it Cattleya.

How to Grow Laelia purpurata

Laelia purpurata has the same cultural requirements as the other large-flowered Cattleya species. It benefits from lots of sun and moving air and a temperature between 58–60 F (14.5–15.5 C) at night and 80–85 F (26.5–29.5 C) during the day. It usually begins sending up new growths in late summer and early autumn in the United States. These growths will be completed by mid-January or early February and buds will begin to form in the sheath after a short rest period. The plants will flower from late May into June, depending on the clone.
Give L. purpurata a few weeks’ rest after it flowers by minimizing the watering, but do not let the pseudobulbs shrivel too much. Once the plant begins to grow, it requires lots of water, particularly as the growth elongates beyond 6 inches (15 cm). Laelia purpurata can develop some really large pseudobulbs, often exceeding 20 inches (50 cm) from the base of the pseudobulb to the tip of the leaf, if grown well.
— A.A. Chadwick.

Laelia purpurata

http://cattleya.wikidot.com/laelia-purpurata

Habitat: Brazil. Laelia purpurata grows high in the tree canopy where it is exposed to bright light and lots of good air circulation. Native to the regions of Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo, Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul.
Plant Size: Medium to large-sized plant resembles unifoliate Cattleya plants. The tall pseudobulbs of Laelia purpurata have one leathery leaf. Overall plant height can exceed 2 feet (60 cm). Flowers develop in a green sheath on the new growth. Leaves are medium to dark green in color.
Flower Size: 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm). This species has the largest flower of all the Laelias.
Flower Description: Very showy, fragrant, and long-lasting. Flowers of Laelia purpurata develop on a 12 to 15 inch long raceme and have between 3 to 7 flowers. The individual flowers are well-spaced and make an attractive display. The typical form has white petals and sepals and a purple lip. There is a great deal of color variation in the species. There are concolor lavender, semi-alba, white, vinicolor, delicata, flared and blue color forms of Laelia purpurata with a variety of markings and striping within the lip. There are many named varieties available.
Bloom Season: Late Spring to Fall
Growing Temperature: Intermediate to Warm. Grows well with unifoliate Cattleya species and hybrids.
Additional Information: Laelia purpurata is the most popular of all Laelias and has been used by breeders to make some of the most beautiful Cattleya hybrids.
In Brazil, there are collectors who specialize in this species and shows dedicated to the "Queen" of the Laelias. It is the national flower of Brazil.
Many different color forms exist (this is a partial list):

Laelia purpurata var. alba

White petals and sepals with a yellow throat

Laelia purpurata var. carnea

Pale pink petals and sepals with a darker red-pink lip

Orchids from India - Meghalaya

Location: Meghalaya
Major Orchid Species: Mawsmai And Mawmluh

Orchids are highly valued for their fantastic range of variation and long lasting flowers. Of 17,000 species of orchids in the world, about 1,250 occur in India, of which nearly 300 are to be found in Meghalaya. They form a very noticeable element of the vegetation of the State and these hills have been the classical collection centres of many celebrated botanists and horticultural plant-collectors. They are, as a result, becoming scarce and some of the ornamental species are nearing extinction.

The orchids of Meghalaya have distributions extending upto Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal, China on one hand and Burma, Malaya, Thailand on the other. Few species are only confined to Meghalaya. In Cherrapunji, the two forests - Mawsmai and Mawmluh contain the highest number of orchid species in the whole region. Sohrarim is another forest on the way to Cherrapunji, which is paradise of Botanists.

Orchid Conservation
Conservation of orchids is now a matter of universal concern. There is urgent need to maintain orchid sanctuaries and special efforts must be made to protect the 'Sacred forests' of Meghalaya, hitherto preserved by religious sanction alone. 'Orchid banks' may be created in orchidaria or in forest nurseries by bringing endangered species from their natural habitat and displaying them for the public.

Orchids from India - Arunachal Pradesh

Location: Arunachal Pradesh
Famous Orchids: Rhododendrons, Walnuts, Oaks, Chestnuts, Pine, Spruce
Orchid Types: Terrestrial Orchids, Saprophytes & Epiphytes
Orchid Centres Located At: Itanagar, Tipi, Sessa, Dirang, Jengging, Roing

Arunachal's rich and colorful orchids find a place of pride. Out of about a thousand species of orchids in India, over 600 are to be found in Arunachal alone. Hence this state can rightly be called the "Orchid Paradise" of our country.

Nature's Jewel
These are colorful, spectacular and some bear exotic names such as "Sita Pushpa" and "Draupadi Pushpa", which were believed to have been worn by Goddess Sita and Pandav Queen Draupadi for ornamentation. Many of these orchids are rare, endangered and highly ornamental with long lasting flower qualities. Amongst the variety of orchids as many as 150 species are ornamental and commercially important.

Type And Variety
Orchids form a dominant group of plants with their attractive and unique blooms. In Arunachal Pradesh orchids can also be classified into 140 species of terrestrial orchids with 15 Saprophytes and about 340 Epiphytes found in the different forest types. The prominent species are: Cymbidium Ansifolium, C, Grandiflorum, Coelogyne Corymbosa. Dendroblum Aphylla, d. Fimbriatum Var Occulatum, D. Densiflorum, Calanthe Masuca, Phaius Flavus, Paphiopedilum. Fairrieanum, P.Venustum Renanthera Imschootiana, Vanda Coenulea, etc. Rhynchostylis Retusa is known as the state flower of Arunachal Pradesh.

Department of Environment and Forest, Government of Arunachal Pradesh has established an Orchid Research and Development Station at Tipi in West Kameng district for propagation and conservation of these species.

This centre has established a laboratory for orchids seed and tissue culture for this purpose. In addition Orchidorium at Tippi, two orchid conservation sanctuaries have been established at Sessa and Dirang in West Kameng district. Wide varieties of medicinal plant are also found over here. Orchid centres located at Itanagar, Tipi, Sessa, Dirang, Jengging, Roing under the State Forest Research Institute have good germ-plasma collection with about 400 species and hybrids.

Orchid Trade Industry
Arunachal Pradesh having variety of ornamental orchids has great potentials in orchid trade industry, which consists of mainly of plant and cut flowers. Various ornamental orchid plants both species and hybrids are sold in market either bare-root or potted plants. In fact, orchid growing can be developed as a cottage industry in Arunachal Pradesh. Orchids are an endangered plant group. Hence, orchid trade is regulated under the Convention of International Trade for Endangered Species (CITES).

Since India is signatory to this convention, Orchid trade attracts the Wild Life Protection Act (1972) of government of India amended in 1992. Accordingly, Orchids have been brought under Schedule VI of Wild Life Protection Act and the trade is regulated as per Rule.

Realising the precarious situation in all the Orchid habitats within the State, the Orchid Society Of Arunachal Pradesh was formed to spread the message of conservation and promotion of orchids throughout the State.

Cattleya from Hawaii

How I grow and care for my Cattleya Orchids

How I grow and care for my Cattleya Orchids

To me, Cattleya orchids are among the most beautiful and fulfilling of the orchid species to grow and care for. Their care and culture is easily learned by the beginner, and with simple growing conditions most of us can obtain outstanding results. Adding additional Cattleya orchids to your collection is easy, since their care and culture varies only slightly among most of the hybrids. Once you learn how to grow, bloom, and care for Cattleya orchids, then you can easily learn to grow any other genera of orchids.

Many people have asked how I grow such beautiful orchids. While many books have been written about how to grow and care for Cattleya orchids and other orchid species, this is how I grow mine:

First; I HARD GROW all of my Cattleya orchids. Cattleya orchids (and other orchid species) that have been hard grown will have bigger, brighter, sturdier blooms and the inflorescence will be stronger and not require staking. Hard grown means that the orchid plant was not babied in any way. Temperatures were allowed to be above the maximum and below the minimum. The orchid plants are given outside conditions to toughen them up, and all of the orchid fertilizer they can handle. This makes them able to withstand extremes, and it shows up in the orchid blooms. Unlike the orchid plants you normally are offered, these Cattleya orchids have very sturdy leaves. The orchid leaf can break like a celery stick. Rarely are hard grown Cattleya orchids such as these offered for sale.


Care Conditions:

Light: This is the most important factor in growing and flowering Cattleya orchids. From May though September, I cover my growing area with 60% shade cloth. On the 1st of October, I remove the shade cloth to increase light levels throughout the winter. This allows the orchid plants to get bright sunlight, making sure they do not get any direct sun in the middle of the day.

Temperature: This ranges from 48 degrees in the winter to over 95 in the summer. The orchid plants are open to the environment and thus can tolerate the temperature range.

Water: In my experience, more orchids are killed by over watering than from lack of water. Mature Cattleya orchids need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. From about October 1st through May, I water once a week. From May though September, I water twice a week. Please note; in both May and September, I use a bamboo skewer to check before watering. I pick an average pot, push a dry bamboo skewer into the middle, and let it set for 10 seconds. I then pull it out and touch my cheek with it. If the skewer is cool to the touch, I wait a day before watering. This method is not of my own invention, but one of the many things that I have learned on the Internet.

Fertilizer: I am currently using Peter's 20-20-20 with micro-nutrients. When new growth is developing, I fertilize ½ strength (1 teaspoon of Peter's per gal) each time I water. I also water with just plain water once a month to flush out excess fertilizer salts.

When I remove the shade cloth, I reduce my watering, still continuing to fertilize once every two weeks for the winter.

Twice a year, I water with Epson Salts at a mixture of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water (it adds magnesium to the soil-less mixes that we all use). If you can find a fertilizer with calmag in it, then don't add the Epson Salts.

Potting: The mix I use is 5 parts medium bark, 2 parts sponge rock, 2 part coconut chips, and 1 part charcoal. This mix works very well for my growing conditions. As a general rule, I re-pot newly purchased orchids even if they come from a reputable dealer.


I hope this answers most of your questions. Please feel free to email me. Even if you haven't purchased from me, I will more than happily help you out.

Best Regards,

Jim orchids@jporchids.com

CATTLEYAS and LAELIAS

CATTLEYAS and LAELIAS
These orchids are the most sumptuous and exotic of all and are chosen for corsages.
In nature there are about 50 species each of Cattleya and of Laelia from Central America, growing through the Amazon region to the south of Brazil. Their distinctive flowers and the tendency of these plants to grow in large colonies has meant that they have been vigorously over-collected and the status of many is endangered.

The plants produce strong 'pseudobulbs' topped with one or more leathery leaves. Each year a dormant bud at the base grows into a new shoot. This thickens to produce the current year's pseudobulb. The flowers arise from the tip of the current year's growth and come in a range of colours from white and pink to green and purple. Some flower twice yearly.

Hybrids
Multitudes of hybrids have been bred over the years, many of which are easy to grow and easy to flower. Over 40 other genera have been bred into Cattleyas and Laelias, and notably among them Sophronitis has been used to introduce scarlet and Brassovola for the frilly lip.

Temperature and Humidity
Minimum night temperatures of 10 -15 C, depending on the plants' origin, are needed, but growth in summer is rapid at temperatures up to 26 C. A humid atmosphere, propelled by a fan is beneficial.

Light
In greenhouses, the normal maximum is 50% of full daylight or 2000-3000 foot candles. In hot weather shade sufficiently to ensure that the leaves are cool to the touch. If you are growing in the home give a bright situation but not direct sunlight, behind a net curtain, from April to September. These also make good conservatory plants as long as summer shade and good air movement can be provided.

Watering and Fertilising
From March to September the compost should never be allowed to dry out completely. Water twice weekly and fertilise fortnightly with a recommended orchid fertiliser. From October to February, no fertiliser is needed, but water the plants when the compost appears dried out. It is better to underwater as the plants can stand neglect more than over watering!

Compost and potting
A medium bark mix will do well with added polystyrene spheres or perlite to keep it open. Chopped sphagnum helps retain humidity and some charcoal keeps it 'sweet'. New compost will keep the plant growing for two to three years before it turns acid and the plant needs repotting. Don't repot until the plants are crawling over the sides of the current pot and the best time to repot is when the new roots are just beginning to appear at the new shoot's base. If the plant has over eight pseudobulbs, the thick rhizome can be cut to give two equal sized plants which can be potted separately.