Location: Meghalaya
Major Orchid Species: Mawsmai And Mawmluh
Orchids are highly valued for their fantastic range of variation and long lasting flowers. Of 17,000 species of orchids in the world, about 1,250 occur in India, of which nearly 300 are to be found in Meghalaya. They form a very noticeable element of the vegetation of the State and these hills have been the classical collection centres of many celebrated botanists and horticultural plant-collectors. They are, as a result, becoming scarce and some of the ornamental species are nearing extinction.
The orchids of Meghalaya have distributions extending upto Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal, China on one hand and Burma, Malaya, Thailand on the other. Few species are only confined to Meghalaya. In Cherrapunji, the two forests - Mawsmai and Mawmluh contain the highest number of orchid species in the whole region. Sohrarim is another forest on the way to Cherrapunji, which is paradise of Botanists.
Orchid Conservation
Conservation of orchids is now a matter of universal concern. There is urgent need to maintain orchid sanctuaries and special efforts must be made to protect the 'Sacred forests' of Meghalaya, hitherto preserved by religious sanction alone. 'Orchid banks' may be created in orchidaria or in forest nurseries by bringing endangered species from their natural habitat and displaying them for the public.
Thursday, January 25, 2007
Orchids from India - Arunachal Pradesh
Location: Arunachal Pradesh
Famous Orchids: Rhododendrons, Walnuts, Oaks, Chestnuts, Pine, Spruce
Orchid Types: Terrestrial Orchids, Saprophytes & Epiphytes
Orchid Centres Located At: Itanagar, Tipi, Sessa, Dirang, Jengging, Roing
Arunachal's rich and colorful orchids find a place of pride. Out of about a thousand species of orchids in India, over 600 are to be found in Arunachal alone. Hence this state can rightly be called the "Orchid Paradise" of our country.
Nature's Jewel
These are colorful, spectacular and some bear exotic names such as "Sita Pushpa" and "Draupadi Pushpa", which were believed to have been worn by Goddess Sita and Pandav Queen Draupadi for ornamentation. Many of these orchids are rare, endangered and highly ornamental with long lasting flower qualities. Amongst the variety of orchids as many as 150 species are ornamental and commercially important.
Type And Variety
Orchids form a dominant group of plants with their attractive and unique blooms. In Arunachal Pradesh orchids can also be classified into 140 species of terrestrial orchids with 15 Saprophytes and about 340 Epiphytes found in the different forest types. The prominent species are: Cymbidium Ansifolium, C, Grandiflorum, Coelogyne Corymbosa. Dendroblum Aphylla, d. Fimbriatum Var Occulatum, D. Densiflorum, Calanthe Masuca, Phaius Flavus, Paphiopedilum. Fairrieanum, P.Venustum Renanthera Imschootiana, Vanda Coenulea, etc. Rhynchostylis Retusa is known as the state flower of Arunachal Pradesh.
Department of Environment and Forest, Government of Arunachal Pradesh has established an Orchid Research and Development Station at Tipi in West Kameng district for propagation and conservation of these species.
This centre has established a laboratory for orchids seed and tissue culture for this purpose. In addition Orchidorium at Tippi, two orchid conservation sanctuaries have been established at Sessa and Dirang in West Kameng district. Wide varieties of medicinal plant are also found over here. Orchid centres located at Itanagar, Tipi, Sessa, Dirang, Jengging, Roing under the State Forest Research Institute have good germ-plasma collection with about 400 species and hybrids.
Orchid Trade Industry
Arunachal Pradesh having variety of ornamental orchids has great potentials in orchid trade industry, which consists of mainly of plant and cut flowers. Various ornamental orchid plants both species and hybrids are sold in market either bare-root or potted plants. In fact, orchid growing can be developed as a cottage industry in Arunachal Pradesh. Orchids are an endangered plant group. Hence, orchid trade is regulated under the Convention of International Trade for Endangered Species (CITES).
Since India is signatory to this convention, Orchid trade attracts the Wild Life Protection Act (1972) of government of India amended in 1992. Accordingly, Orchids have been brought under Schedule VI of Wild Life Protection Act and the trade is regulated as per Rule.
Realising the precarious situation in all the Orchid habitats within the State, the Orchid Society Of Arunachal Pradesh was formed to spread the message of conservation and promotion of orchids throughout the State.
Famous Orchids: Rhododendrons, Walnuts, Oaks, Chestnuts, Pine, Spruce
Orchid Types: Terrestrial Orchids, Saprophytes & Epiphytes
Orchid Centres Located At: Itanagar, Tipi, Sessa, Dirang, Jengging, Roing
Arunachal's rich and colorful orchids find a place of pride. Out of about a thousand species of orchids in India, over 600 are to be found in Arunachal alone. Hence this state can rightly be called the "Orchid Paradise" of our country.
Nature's Jewel
These are colorful, spectacular and some bear exotic names such as "Sita Pushpa" and "Draupadi Pushpa", which were believed to have been worn by Goddess Sita and Pandav Queen Draupadi for ornamentation. Many of these orchids are rare, endangered and highly ornamental with long lasting flower qualities. Amongst the variety of orchids as many as 150 species are ornamental and commercially important.
Type And Variety
Orchids form a dominant group of plants with their attractive and unique blooms. In Arunachal Pradesh orchids can also be classified into 140 species of terrestrial orchids with 15 Saprophytes and about 340 Epiphytes found in the different forest types. The prominent species are: Cymbidium Ansifolium, C, Grandiflorum, Coelogyne Corymbosa. Dendroblum Aphylla, d. Fimbriatum Var Occulatum, D. Densiflorum, Calanthe Masuca, Phaius Flavus, Paphiopedilum. Fairrieanum, P.Venustum Renanthera Imschootiana, Vanda Coenulea, etc. Rhynchostylis Retusa is known as the state flower of Arunachal Pradesh.
Department of Environment and Forest, Government of Arunachal Pradesh has established an Orchid Research and Development Station at Tipi in West Kameng district for propagation and conservation of these species.
This centre has established a laboratory for orchids seed and tissue culture for this purpose. In addition Orchidorium at Tippi, two orchid conservation sanctuaries have been established at Sessa and Dirang in West Kameng district. Wide varieties of medicinal plant are also found over here. Orchid centres located at Itanagar, Tipi, Sessa, Dirang, Jengging, Roing under the State Forest Research Institute have good germ-plasma collection with about 400 species and hybrids.
Orchid Trade Industry
Arunachal Pradesh having variety of ornamental orchids has great potentials in orchid trade industry, which consists of mainly of plant and cut flowers. Various ornamental orchid plants both species and hybrids are sold in market either bare-root or potted plants. In fact, orchid growing can be developed as a cottage industry in Arunachal Pradesh. Orchids are an endangered plant group. Hence, orchid trade is regulated under the Convention of International Trade for Endangered Species (CITES).
Since India is signatory to this convention, Orchid trade attracts the Wild Life Protection Act (1972) of government of India amended in 1992. Accordingly, Orchids have been brought under Schedule VI of Wild Life Protection Act and the trade is regulated as per Rule.
Realising the precarious situation in all the Orchid habitats within the State, the Orchid Society Of Arunachal Pradesh was formed to spread the message of conservation and promotion of orchids throughout the State.
Thursday, January 11, 2007
How I grow and care for my Cattleya Orchids
How I grow and care for my Cattleya Orchids
To me, Cattleya orchids are among the most beautiful and fulfilling of the orchid species to grow and care for. Their care and culture is easily learned by the beginner, and with simple growing conditions most of us can obtain outstanding results. Adding additional Cattleya orchids to your collection is easy, since their care and culture varies only slightly among most of the hybrids. Once you learn how to grow, bloom, and care for Cattleya orchids, then you can easily learn to grow any other genera of orchids.
Many people have asked how I grow such beautiful orchids. While many books have been written about how to grow and care for Cattleya orchids and other orchid species, this is how I grow mine:
First; I HARD GROW all of my Cattleya orchids. Cattleya orchids (and other orchid species) that have been hard grown will have bigger, brighter, sturdier blooms and the inflorescence will be stronger and not require staking. Hard grown means that the orchid plant was not babied in any way. Temperatures were allowed to be above the maximum and below the minimum. The orchid plants are given outside conditions to toughen them up, and all of the orchid fertilizer they can handle. This makes them able to withstand extremes, and it shows up in the orchid blooms. Unlike the orchid plants you normally are offered, these Cattleya orchids have very sturdy leaves. The orchid leaf can break like a celery stick. Rarely are hard grown Cattleya orchids such as these offered for sale.
Care Conditions:
Light: This is the most important factor in growing and flowering Cattleya orchids. From May though September, I cover my growing area with 60% shade cloth. On the 1st of October, I remove the shade cloth to increase light levels throughout the winter. This allows the orchid plants to get bright sunlight, making sure they do not get any direct sun in the middle of the day.
Temperature: This ranges from 48 degrees in the winter to over 95 in the summer. The orchid plants are open to the environment and thus can tolerate the temperature range.
Water: In my experience, more orchids are killed by over watering than from lack of water. Mature Cattleya orchids need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. From about October 1st through May, I water once a week. From May though September, I water twice a week. Please note; in both May and September, I use a bamboo skewer to check before watering. I pick an average pot, push a dry bamboo skewer into the middle, and let it set for 10 seconds. I then pull it out and touch my cheek with it. If the skewer is cool to the touch, I wait a day before watering. This method is not of my own invention, but one of the many things that I have learned on the Internet.
Fertilizer: I am currently using Peter's 20-20-20 with micro-nutrients. When new growth is developing, I fertilize ½ strength (1 teaspoon of Peter's per gal) each time I water. I also water with just plain water once a month to flush out excess fertilizer salts.
When I remove the shade cloth, I reduce my watering, still continuing to fertilize once every two weeks for the winter.
Twice a year, I water with Epson Salts at a mixture of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water (it adds magnesium to the soil-less mixes that we all use). If you can find a fertilizer with calmag in it, then don't add the Epson Salts.
Potting: The mix I use is 5 parts medium bark, 2 parts sponge rock, 2 part coconut chips, and 1 part charcoal. This mix works very well for my growing conditions. As a general rule, I re-pot newly purchased orchids even if they come from a reputable dealer.
I hope this answers most of your questions. Please feel free to email me. Even if you haven't purchased from me, I will more than happily help you out.
Best Regards,
Jim orchids@jporchids.com
To me, Cattleya orchids are among the most beautiful and fulfilling of the orchid species to grow and care for. Their care and culture is easily learned by the beginner, and with simple growing conditions most of us can obtain outstanding results. Adding additional Cattleya orchids to your collection is easy, since their care and culture varies only slightly among most of the hybrids. Once you learn how to grow, bloom, and care for Cattleya orchids, then you can easily learn to grow any other genera of orchids.
Many people have asked how I grow such beautiful orchids. While many books have been written about how to grow and care for Cattleya orchids and other orchid species, this is how I grow mine:
First; I HARD GROW all of my Cattleya orchids. Cattleya orchids (and other orchid species) that have been hard grown will have bigger, brighter, sturdier blooms and the inflorescence will be stronger and not require staking. Hard grown means that the orchid plant was not babied in any way. Temperatures were allowed to be above the maximum and below the minimum. The orchid plants are given outside conditions to toughen them up, and all of the orchid fertilizer they can handle. This makes them able to withstand extremes, and it shows up in the orchid blooms. Unlike the orchid plants you normally are offered, these Cattleya orchids have very sturdy leaves. The orchid leaf can break like a celery stick. Rarely are hard grown Cattleya orchids such as these offered for sale.
Care Conditions:
Light: This is the most important factor in growing and flowering Cattleya orchids. From May though September, I cover my growing area with 60% shade cloth. On the 1st of October, I remove the shade cloth to increase light levels throughout the winter. This allows the orchid plants to get bright sunlight, making sure they do not get any direct sun in the middle of the day.
Temperature: This ranges from 48 degrees in the winter to over 95 in the summer. The orchid plants are open to the environment and thus can tolerate the temperature range.
Water: In my experience, more orchids are killed by over watering than from lack of water. Mature Cattleya orchids need to dry out thoroughly before being watered again. From about October 1st through May, I water once a week. From May though September, I water twice a week. Please note; in both May and September, I use a bamboo skewer to check before watering. I pick an average pot, push a dry bamboo skewer into the middle, and let it set for 10 seconds. I then pull it out and touch my cheek with it. If the skewer is cool to the touch, I wait a day before watering. This method is not of my own invention, but one of the many things that I have learned on the Internet.
Fertilizer: I am currently using Peter's 20-20-20 with micro-nutrients. When new growth is developing, I fertilize ½ strength (1 teaspoon of Peter's per gal) each time I water. I also water with just plain water once a month to flush out excess fertilizer salts.
When I remove the shade cloth, I reduce my watering, still continuing to fertilize once every two weeks for the winter.
Twice a year, I water with Epson Salts at a mixture of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water (it adds magnesium to the soil-less mixes that we all use). If you can find a fertilizer with calmag in it, then don't add the Epson Salts.
Potting: The mix I use is 5 parts medium bark, 2 parts sponge rock, 2 part coconut chips, and 1 part charcoal. This mix works very well for my growing conditions. As a general rule, I re-pot newly purchased orchids even if they come from a reputable dealer.
I hope this answers most of your questions. Please feel free to email me. Even if you haven't purchased from me, I will more than happily help you out.
Best Regards,
Jim orchids@jporchids.com
CATTLEYAS and LAELIAS
CATTLEYAS and LAELIAS
These orchids are the most sumptuous and exotic of all and are chosen for corsages.
In nature there are about 50 species each of Cattleya and of Laelia from Central America, growing through the Amazon region to the south of Brazil. Their distinctive flowers and the tendency of these plants to grow in large colonies has meant that they have been vigorously over-collected and the status of many is endangered.
The plants produce strong 'pseudobulbs' topped with one or more leathery leaves. Each year a dormant bud at the base grows into a new shoot. This thickens to produce the current year's pseudobulb. The flowers arise from the tip of the current year's growth and come in a range of colours from white and pink to green and purple. Some flower twice yearly.
Hybrids
Multitudes of hybrids have been bred over the years, many of which are easy to grow and easy to flower. Over 40 other genera have been bred into Cattleyas and Laelias, and notably among them Sophronitis has been used to introduce scarlet and Brassovola for the frilly lip.
Temperature and Humidity
Minimum night temperatures of 10 -15 C, depending on the plants' origin, are needed, but growth in summer is rapid at temperatures up to 26 C. A humid atmosphere, propelled by a fan is beneficial.
Light
In greenhouses, the normal maximum is 50% of full daylight or 2000-3000 foot candles. In hot weather shade sufficiently to ensure that the leaves are cool to the touch. If you are growing in the home give a bright situation but not direct sunlight, behind a net curtain, from April to September. These also make good conservatory plants as long as summer shade and good air movement can be provided.
Watering and Fertilising
From March to September the compost should never be allowed to dry out completely. Water twice weekly and fertilise fortnightly with a recommended orchid fertiliser. From October to February, no fertiliser is needed, but water the plants when the compost appears dried out. It is better to underwater as the plants can stand neglect more than over watering!
Compost and potting
A medium bark mix will do well with added polystyrene spheres or perlite to keep it open. Chopped sphagnum helps retain humidity and some charcoal keeps it 'sweet'. New compost will keep the plant growing for two to three years before it turns acid and the plant needs repotting. Don't repot until the plants are crawling over the sides of the current pot and the best time to repot is when the new roots are just beginning to appear at the new shoot's base. If the plant has over eight pseudobulbs, the thick rhizome can be cut to give two equal sized plants which can be potted separately.
These orchids are the most sumptuous and exotic of all and are chosen for corsages.
In nature there are about 50 species each of Cattleya and of Laelia from Central America, growing through the Amazon region to the south of Brazil. Their distinctive flowers and the tendency of these plants to grow in large colonies has meant that they have been vigorously over-collected and the status of many is endangered.
The plants produce strong 'pseudobulbs' topped with one or more leathery leaves. Each year a dormant bud at the base grows into a new shoot. This thickens to produce the current year's pseudobulb. The flowers arise from the tip of the current year's growth and come in a range of colours from white and pink to green and purple. Some flower twice yearly.
Hybrids
Multitudes of hybrids have been bred over the years, many of which are easy to grow and easy to flower. Over 40 other genera have been bred into Cattleyas and Laelias, and notably among them Sophronitis has been used to introduce scarlet and Brassovola for the frilly lip.
Temperature and Humidity
Minimum night temperatures of 10 -15 C, depending on the plants' origin, are needed, but growth in summer is rapid at temperatures up to 26 C. A humid atmosphere, propelled by a fan is beneficial.
Light
In greenhouses, the normal maximum is 50% of full daylight or 2000-3000 foot candles. In hot weather shade sufficiently to ensure that the leaves are cool to the touch. If you are growing in the home give a bright situation but not direct sunlight, behind a net curtain, from April to September. These also make good conservatory plants as long as summer shade and good air movement can be provided.
Watering and Fertilising
From March to September the compost should never be allowed to dry out completely. Water twice weekly and fertilise fortnightly with a recommended orchid fertiliser. From October to February, no fertiliser is needed, but water the plants when the compost appears dried out. It is better to underwater as the plants can stand neglect more than over watering!
Compost and potting
A medium bark mix will do well with added polystyrene spheres or perlite to keep it open. Chopped sphagnum helps retain humidity and some charcoal keeps it 'sweet'. New compost will keep the plant growing for two to three years before it turns acid and the plant needs repotting. Don't repot until the plants are crawling over the sides of the current pot and the best time to repot is when the new roots are just beginning to appear at the new shoot's base. If the plant has over eight pseudobulbs, the thick rhizome can be cut to give two equal sized plants which can be potted separately.
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